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The Lights Went Out: A Wake-Up Call for Home Energy Independence — RenewSolar
We looked into this type of solar installation as the data on power outages shows that the average this year was 1 hour outages, the problem here is that its stats so one person could be days, where most power outages are seconds, so draw the average down.
I think last year are area have three power outages one was for around two hours and the other four, there has been blips as well.
Generally I do not notice them for obvious reasons.

How does this work?
You probably have a small UPS attached to your computer (should have) which kicks in if the grid goes down so you can shut down your computers without losing everything, they also condition the power so you get nice power ( the grid is not so great) and of course you get various levels of protection.

With a home sized ups they work the same, most will allow you to power by solar so you reduce your bill that way, but they don't always allow you to use the battery as power - because this is for when the power goes out...
think of it as  grid tied solar which works without the grid.

Yes most grid tied and many hybrid system shut down when the power goes out. A point missed by many people who have solar installed.

IMPORTANT
When you have this type of installation, you need to  consider two important factors.
1. the pass through.
2. inverter size.

The pass through is  where the inverter passes the grid power to your home. this can be limited and may not meet your needs.
it may be 4000w of power, it may be 14000w, but this needs to meet your peak loads within your home.

The inverter size and depending on the actual configuration/type, will depend on how much power your going to need from the inverter. As you wont notice power outages, it can be problematic to have a smaller inverter as it will cut power if your load is too high. So you need to consider what power the inverter would be;
5kw is good, 8kw is going to meet most needs 16kw is going to supply everything.

You could go down to a 3.6kw, as this will run most homes with lower power usage.
This may also be tied to the power pass through, so keep that in mind.

What we were going to say in the post was that if you have teenagers the internet going down can be a big issues and cause you a headache, so it pays to have a back up. We do make a small UPS for routers, as the internet has back up power, such as mobile internet and often cabled internet works too.
That's to say if your power goes off,  the internet is still there and working so you just need power.

If you want to test this, go turn off your router/modem for a few hours and you will see how much you will need to do something 🤣

POWER SAVING:
These systems work with what's called priority; this means that your battery is charged, the excess solar is provided to the home.
You have modes, like SBU - this is the better mode as your home gets solar power, any short fall comes from the battery, and failing those it comes from the grid.
it can have USB and SUB, for back up (UPS) it is likely to be using SUB mode.
You may want to change this, but you would never know when you will have a power cut, so changing the mode would more relate to which season you are in.

For example SBU when you have plenty of solar. USB when you do not.

You do need to pay attention to the unit as some wont charge from the grid while providing power. its is likely that in winter you would need to grid charge if you were using  SBU mode.

Is it Grid parallel? do I need a G99/98/100?
These are NOT grid parallel and you do not need to fill out paperwork and ask permission. The ENA and G** is ONLY to address system that work in parallel with the grid ( together with) meaning out putting power onto the grid. these are more like an appliance, such as a oven or welder. Therefore you do not need to apply and pay for connecting the device.

How do you wire this up?

Wiring it into your home is not too complex but has its dangers.

I would have a back up just in case you have a fault in the system. This will mean having a transfer switch.

Working  from the other way you would connect the transfer output to the fuse box where the cables from the meter go to.
This then goes to the transfer switch out.
Then on the transfer switch you would have the grid cables ( from the meter) on one side and the inverter the other.

This then gives you the option of output from the inverter or grid to the fuse box.
You do need to install a earth (PE) for the inverter side.

You would then need to wire from the grid supply to a smaller consumer unit, which is then wired to the AC input of the inverter.
this needs to be a "full load" connection (tails).

This is just a summary of how to wire and not detailed nor does it cover all issues and safety, so keep that in mind, you could be working with live grid power and there is a risk of shock or death and a host of other problems.. IF IN DOUBT GET THE PROFESIONAL OUT!

Any other questions?